This guide's got more kick than a Vietnamese coffee, is loftier than the peaks of Fansipan, cooler than the breezes of Halong Bay, and has more street nous than a hard-bitten Ho Chi Minh City cyclo driver. Promise. -- a good night's sleep -- from Hanoi highrises to humble homestays -- natural wonders: escape to beaches, national parks and Unesco World Heritage wilderness -- super special sections on language, food and the Tet festival -- 95 maps, including full-colour country map